Exquisite Ethiopia

From our very first days cycle in Ethiopia it became evident that we were in for something special. After crossing the Gallabat border we realised that the harsh desert terrain was behind us as we were instantly subjected to completely new surroundings. The winding road made its way through a dense bushveld type terrain scattered with stunning old trees that played host to an abundance of birdlife, the extent of which I have seldom witnessed. I can’t be sure whether this is because I’m used to travelling by car, not exposing oneself to the chirps and lyrics of our feathery little friends or because these unspoilt natural lands have created a wonderfully inhabitable environment. Either way, it was a sensational way to be welcomed into Ethiopia.

As we made our way through these new settings, we passed through many quaint little villages that illustrated a complete lack of western world influence. They seemed almost timeless in the sense that everything had been built entirely from natural resources. The fences had been constructed from branches whilst the huts had been erected from a combination of mud and timber and finished off with perfectly thatched roofs. There was almost a charm about these small communities as their rural and simplistic appearance enabled them to fit into the magnificent surroundings beautifully and project an aura of natural beauty that’s quite incredible to witness.

As we progressed the landscapes changed considerably. Rolling hills and considerable mountain ranges have however seemed to remain a constant which has made the cycling challenging but as we proceeded from Aykol towards Gonder the thick vegetation gave way to open countryside. The combination of our changing altitude and mesmerising backdrops treated us to scenery that was simply spectacular. The fertile lands obviously lend themselves perfectly to a subsistent lifestyle as there are numerous fields that appear to have been harvested and farmlands teaming with livestock. Considering that this is still the dry season my mind cannot begin to fathom how astonishingly beautiful this country must be after the rains.

An amazing consequence of the Ethiopians extraordinary affinity to live off the land is that there are quite literally people everywhere. The country has a population of approximately 82 million (it’s the most populated land locked country in the world) and when one considers that the country’s third largest city is home to only 160 thousand people it becomes understandable why we seldom cycle more than 500 meters without seeing someone. As a result it’s almost impossible to take a rest without being surrounded by inquisitive kids who are more than happy to sit around and watch your every move (which I must admit does take some getting used to). Not only has it affected our breaks, but for this very reason, camping hasn’t been a viable option and consequently we have had to take shelter in small hotels. In some country’s this could have potentially blown our finances, but thankfully in Ethiopia one can get an adequate hotel room for 30 Birr (equivalent to R15) which is affordable-even on a tight budget.

Another appealing aspect to cycling in Ethiopia is that very few people own private vehicles. Although this demonstrates the lack of wealth within the country - which is sad – it does mean that we have the pristine tarmac largely to ourselves. Of course there is the exception of the odd old truck and jam-packed bus which come past every now and then. Yet we wouldn’t wish them away because like us, their overworked engines tend to struggle a bit up the climbs which occasionally allow us the opportunity to ‘pull a Jamie Chennells stunt ’ and cling onto the back - thus sneaking a ride a little closer to our destination.

On the other hand, one of the less appealing features that we were warned about when cycling in Ethiopia is that the children like to throw stones. Admittedly we have had a couple isolated incidents when this has occurred, but they have been few and far between. Generally the people have been incredibly friendly and accommodating towards us, both on and off the bike which has been fantastic. It really is amazing what a difference a smile, a wave and a hello or ‘salamnu’ can make.

Having said that, I hope things don’t change too much as we head south of Addis Ababa towards Kenya. It has been a phenomenal three weeks in this exquisite country so far and we probably have another three weeks to look forward to. Buster has joined the gang and is keenly anticipating getting on the road. Before that happens, we have a few days to explore Addis and we might try catch one of those jam-packed busses up to see the ancient sights of Lalibela which would be fascinating. So there’s still plenty in stall for us and its exciting just thinking of what awaits us on our adventure…