Exquisite Ethiopia

From our very first days cycle in Ethiopia it became evident that we were in for something special. After crossing the Gallabat border we realised that the harsh desert terrain was behind us as we were instantly subjected to completely new surroundings. The winding road made its way through a dense bushveld type terrain scattered with stunning old trees that played host to an abundance of birdlife, the extent of which I have seldom witnessed. I can’t be sure whether this is because I’m used to travelling by car, not exposing oneself to the chirps and lyrics of our feathery little friends or because these unspoilt natural lands have created a wonderfully inhabitable environment. Either way, it was a sensational way to be welcomed into Ethiopia.

As we made our way through these new settings, we passed through many quaint little villages that illustrated a complete lack of western world influence. They seemed almost timeless in the sense that everything had been built entirely from natural resources. The fences had been constructed from branches whilst the huts had been erected from a combination of mud and timber and finished off with perfectly thatched roofs. There was almost a charm about these small communities as their rural and simplistic appearance enabled them to fit into the magnificent surroundings beautifully and project an aura of natural beauty that’s quite incredible to witness.

As we progressed the landscapes changed considerably. Rolling hills and considerable mountain ranges have however seemed to remain a constant which has made the cycling challenging but as we proceeded from Aykol towards Gonder the thick vegetation gave way to open countryside. The combination of our changing altitude and mesmerising backdrops treated us to scenery that was simply spectacular. The fertile lands obviously lend themselves perfectly to a subsistent lifestyle as there are numerous fields that appear to have been harvested and farmlands teaming with livestock. Considering that this is still the dry season my mind cannot begin to fathom how astonishingly beautiful this country must be after the rains.

An amazing consequence of the Ethiopians extraordinary affinity to live off the land is that there are quite literally people everywhere. The country has a population of approximately 82 million (it’s the most populated land locked country in the world) and when one considers that the country’s third largest city is home to only 160 thousand people it becomes understandable why we seldom cycle more than 500 meters without seeing someone. As a result it’s almost impossible to take a rest without being surrounded by inquisitive kids who are more than happy to sit around and watch your every move (which I must admit does take some getting used to). Not only has it affected our breaks, but for this very reason, camping hasn’t been a viable option and consequently we have had to take shelter in small hotels. In some country’s this could have potentially blown our finances, but thankfully in Ethiopia one can get an adequate hotel room for 30 Birr (equivalent to R15) which is affordable-even on a tight budget.

Another appealing aspect to cycling in Ethiopia is that very few people own private vehicles. Although this demonstrates the lack of wealth within the country - which is sad – it does mean that we have the pristine tarmac largely to ourselves. Of course there is the exception of the odd old truck and jam-packed bus which come past every now and then. Yet we wouldn’t wish them away because like us, their overworked engines tend to struggle a bit up the climbs which occasionally allow us the opportunity to ‘pull a Jamie Chennells stunt ’ and cling onto the back - thus sneaking a ride a little closer to our destination.

On the other hand, one of the less appealing features that we were warned about when cycling in Ethiopia is that the children like to throw stones. Admittedly we have had a couple isolated incidents when this has occurred, but they have been few and far between. Generally the people have been incredibly friendly and accommodating towards us, both on and off the bike which has been fantastic. It really is amazing what a difference a smile, a wave and a hello or ‘salamnu’ can make.

Having said that, I hope things don’t change too much as we head south of Addis Ababa towards Kenya. It has been a phenomenal three weeks in this exquisite country so far and we probably have another three weeks to look forward to. Buster has joined the gang and is keenly anticipating getting on the road. Before that happens, we have a few days to explore Addis and we might try catch one of those jam-packed busses up to see the ancient sights of Lalibela which would be fascinating. So there’s still plenty in stall for us and its exciting just thinking of what awaits us on our adventure…

A Snapshot of Sudan

So it all began in the capital of Sudan. After touching down and meeting up with Tom, Matt and our host Adam, we managed to organise a taxi and make our way to Adams house. This turned out to be an adventure in itself as I was exposed to the somewhat chaotic roads of Khartoum. I say 'somewhat chaotic' because although there aren't any road signs and traffic lights are few and far between, the drivers somehow manage to anticipate the often irrational actions of other drivers which allows the system to operate in some crazy way. Fortunately for us, our taxi driver understood the system and managed to weave his way through the densely populated city before safely delivering us to our destination.

On arrival I was welcomed in by the family and instantly made to feel at home as we sat and chatted over a hot cup of chai (tea). This was the first taste of the incredible hospitality that I would become accustomed to over the following two weeks. The house we stayed in was home to twelve family members which gave me an idea of how closely knit the family bonds were. This became even more evident as I witnessed the frequent visits by extended family members, which appeared to be a feature of the Sudanese lifestyle.

As we ventured away from the house and into the city I was fascinated by the stark contrasts within society. It was similar to South Africa in the sense that at one end of the spectrum you had people living on the poverty line whilst at the other end there were people driving around in brand new luxury vehicles. Another contrast was the way in which people interacted in their homes compared to how they interacted in society. There was a definite social segregation between genders within society which was much less apparent within the households. Even so, in the short time that I was in Sudan no one looked down on anyone else and everyone we met seemed upbeat and contempt with their way of life.

The city itself was a hub of activity with everyone going about their daily routines. No one ever harrassed us which Matt mentioned was really refreshing after being pestered as a tourist in countries further north. There was also a complete lack of military presence and I didn't witness the slightest bit of aggression by anyone which I think was testament to the kind nature of the Sudanese people.

As we wandered through the streets it was evident that a lot of the buildings were quite run down and delapidated which isn't really surprising considering the harsh, hot, dry, sandy environment. What was also noticable was the huge amount of development that is in progress within the city. It seemed like everywhere we looked we could see new buildings being built which was encouraging to see.

But alas, we couldn't keep wandering around the city indefinitely and soon it was time to plant ourselves in our saddles and hit the road. It was a case of mixed emotions as its never enjoyable saying goodbye to a family that you spent an amazing week with but at the same time I was excited to take on the 'somewhat chaotic' roads and embrace life on Sebastian (the bike).

So we set off into the desert. Initially I was pretty wobbly with all the excess weight but eventually I managed to get into a rhythm and we managed to make some progress. We usually cycled for about four or five hours in the morning. Then we would find a place to stop and take an extended lunch break which lasted about four hours because the sweltering heat sometimes caused the mercury to rise to the 40 degree mark which was just to hot to cycle in. Then, after a decent rest we would cycle for another hour or two in the evening, hoping to find a suitable spot to set up camp. 

The desert was pretty barren, made up of a fine dust and an abundance of small shrubs. It did however treat us to some spectacular sunsets and it was interesting to see how the terrain changed as we progressed towards the Ethiopian border. Eventually it felt as if we were cycling through the Kruger Park during the dry season. Obviously the major difference was that instead of seeing a variety of wild animals, we saw cattle, sheep and the occassional camel.

So there we go, there's a glimpse into my time in Sudan. It was amazing to experience a bit of the Islamic culture that Tom and Matt had been exposed to since Turkey. I won't miss having to wear long pants all the time but I will undoubtedly miss the people and their hospitality. From here I think the climate and scenery will change drastically and I will be pleasantly surprised if we come across people who are as friendly and generous as they have been in Sudan.